Capers & Coasters in Copenhagen


After the cancellation of yet another major trip (so many plans keep falling apart this year) I realized that at that same time my friend Zen on a Plane was going to be in the area, so I messaged her and a plan was hatched! She flew into Stockholm on Thursday and after some necessary wandering, including to the vegan bakery to stock up on supplies, we took the train to Copenhagen on Friday morning.

From Stockholm Central to Copenhagen Central it’s about five hours, taking you south through the country and across the Oresund Bridge between Malmö and Copenhagen, which is pretty cool (especially when travelling with an engineer). The station was about a half hour walk to our share apartment AirBnb in Norrebro which turned out to be a steal after our original stay cancelled: it was cheaper, larger, and the resident stayed out one of the nights, giving us plenty of freedom to chill in the morning. That first night we  went to a beer bar recommended by our host, tiny and dark but with a wide selection on tap, then tried several times at several places to get falafel but it never worked out, but then we found a cool little place called Blue Tacos with veggie and vegan options, and a pretty cool atmosphere.

On the first full day we went to a nearby little vegan restaurant/cafe called Cafe N and had the highly recommend brunch, and it was so much food and so delicious, I barely needed to eat for the rest of the day. We then met up with one of Zen’s old friends (someone from Sweden) and we spent the day wandering. It was very windy and cold, and with reckless abandon we made a “route” for the Little Mermaid statue, which we would eventually find after unknowingly passing through Christiana, circling out of the city proper, and having a rest in (meal place). More wandering past old buildings and towers, we eventually found the church and impressive fountain (Gefionspringvandet) set on an old star pointed fort outlay near to the statue, which itself was very crowded and strangely very close to the shore. Coffee near the central station to warm up, just missing the rain, we bid our wander buddy farewell and bought food to make at our place for a relaxing night in after about 30 kms of wandering.

Day two we took it easy in the morning before going to Tårnet, which is free entry but does require you wait in line so could be a while. Luckily the cold weather meant we didn’t have to wait too long (the only way up is by lift and only so many allowed at the top at once). The view was amazing but it was so windy, trying to get a photo often ended in stumbling over as a gust pushed you from the edge. There are high grates to keep you in, so no fear of falling, but as a short person to get a good shot I often had to stand on a ledge and reach over, not helping my balance.

From there we went to Tivoli Gardens. Very old and possibly the best in all of Europe, Tivoli is an amusement park, and this was Halloween weekend. While Europe in general is not super Halloweeny as North Americans know it, they had plenty of thematic decorations and a haunted house. We got the ride pass plus, which included admission to the Haunted and VR on the Demon roller coaster. But first stop was Rutschenbanen, third oldest wooden roller in the world (of those still running), built in 1914, we rode it three times. And as it got darker it only got better! We rode the Demon twice, once with VR and once without, which I would recommend because they are two very different rides. Basically all of the rides were amazing! We rode so many, it was excellent, and the Haunted, though there was a longish line, was well done, all the actors very committed. I am very determined to return, especially since the park is so massive, right in the centre of town (next to the station even), and very well done.

On the last day we made sure we were up and out to get to the castle for the changing of the guards. It was cool, and given the layout you can get pretty close to some of the spots where guards changed from, but we didn’t stay to the end as it is a very long process and was very cold. Though if you come for the start that is when the band performs, so be on time! More wandering with a more extensive pass through the colourful buildings of Nyhavn, we cleaned and packed and prepared for home.

I was on the train back to Stockholm alone as my friend would be flying from Copenhagen to Reykjavik before going back to Canada, so we found her train to the airport before I trekked all over the station to the poor lonely track from which the train to Stockholm deports, another five hour journey home (and don’t forget the police passport check as you reenter Sweden if you take this route!), I got to relax and reminisce on another wonderful weekend trip.


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